Climbers climb the Lhotse face twice during the attempt on the summit. Here we provide you a detailed tourist route map to Everest Base Camp from both sides, namely the north side in Tibet and the South side in Nepal. The last half hour is the most mentally challenging. The South Col is a sharp-edged col between Mount Everest and Lhotse, the highest and fourth-highest mountains in the world, respectively.The South Col is typically swept by high winds, leaving it free of significant snow accumulation. Recent years have been tragic with 17 Sherpas killed in the Khumbu Icefall by a serac release on April 8, 2014 and 19 people killed on April 25, 2015 at Everest Base Camp from an avalanche triggered off Pumori's ridge by a magnitude 7.8 earthquake almost 200 miles away in Nepal. It was a great moment for them both, and it was shared by all of us who watched it. Once on the summit, the return climb can be dangerous and has the highest incident rate due to climber's letting their guard down, fatigue or weather conditions that developed during the day. In 2019 there were 878 summits, 216 from Tibet and 662 from Nepal and 3 didn't use supplemental oxygen. Camp 2 seems like a mirage throughout the walk, never getting closer. Climbers can only see a small portion of the Khumbu Ice Fall from this angle. Western Cwm route from Camp 1 (top triangle) to Camp 2 (bottom triangle) as seen from Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. Climbers are now in the section known as the Popcorn. The South Summit is the first time climbers can clearly see the final route to the true summit and probably the first time climbers think they will actually summit. Even the wall after the Balcony is dangerous if unroped. 109 died on the descending from summit bid or 35% of the total deaths. Climbers rarely get a second chance to return to the South Col in a specific expedition. Narrative Also this section can create long bottlenecks both going up and descending. It was on one of these bridges that I fell into a deep crevasse in 2002. Usually there is at least a partial moon in mid to late May so climbers can see the surrounding ground plus the nearby mountains including Makalu and Lhotse. The Cwm is a 'U' shaped valley carved out by the Khumbu glacier. This page details the South Col route from Nepal. The summit is the highest point in this picture. When climbers attempt to climb Everest from the southeast ridge in Nepal, their final camp (usually Camp IV) is situated on the South Col. I found it challenging but not nearly as hard as advertised! 3-6 hours, 1.62 miles one way. We started up the Triangular Face towards the Balcony. This can be exhausting. I repeated basically the same moves to the top pulling on the ropes using my jumar. Mt Everest South Col Route Maps. The Icefall is ever-changing and ever-moving. https://www.alltrails.com/trail/nepal/province-1/mount-everest-via-south-col The North Col (Chinese: 北坳; pinyin: Běi Ào; Tibetan: Chang La) refers to the sharp-edged pass carved by glaciers in the ridge connecting Mount Everest and Changtse in Tibet.It forms the head of the East Rongbuk Glacier. But this section is short, maybe 100' and on a wide snow slope. It only took about 20 minutes to go from the Step to the first view of the summit, prayer flags marking the top of the world. The route was a shock to me in that it was still very steep and seemed much more than 500' gain. There are usually two ropes, an up and a down, attached to the face with ice screws and anchors. The Tibet side has seen 3,603 summits with 110 deaths through December 2019 or 3%, a rate of 1.08. AND deserving of all the mystique and attraction. Many climbers are in their full down suits trying to minimize the weight in their packs. However, this changes when climbers hit the slabs, a long section of smooth to jumbled rock, perhaps 200' in total. So, in the middle of the Himalayas, climbers have a traffic jam! There have been 702 summits by women. Photos at top of page are of Everest's peak on clear days. Normally it is 8 to 12 hours depending how long the climb from Camp 3 took. 3-6 hours, 1.64 miles one way. Climbers worry that their oxygen may run out as climbers get stuck in a line or are going slowly. The next stage is the Lhotse Face, Lhotse is the fourth highest peak in the world at 27,920 feet. Everest Nepal South Col Route Programme Description: Introduction: Mount Everest at 8,848 metres / 29,035 feet is perhaps the most coveted mountain in the world.The south (Nepalese) side is the route first climbed by Tenzing and Hillary in 1953, and the dates we have chosen feature the best weather of … On my IMG climb we had Personal Sherpas whom we had come to know closely. Today, hundreds of climbers from around the world use this route to try to stand on top of the world. You can fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and pass through Namche Bazaar. IMG had a large cooking tent where we all gathered and Sherpas boiled water for us. 48 died not using Os. The next section is the Upper Icefall but it fools climbers because think they see the top of the Icefall before realizing there is more to go. It looks easy but they are tired. There are two commonly climbed routes up the mountain, the South Col Route and the Northeast Ridge. Please note that all content on this site is a result of significant time and money and as such all images, videos, dispatches, essays and stories are original work and property of Alan Arnette unless otherwise noted. Mt. 1,343 people, including 941 Sherpa, have summited multiple times. There is a tendency to relax their guard but now is not the time. click to enlarge map Temperatures can easily reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit. They helped us on with packs and then led the climb to the summit. Treks to EBC (17,200’) are common so I will not cover this segment in much detail other than to say it should take about 7 to 10 days in order to begin the acclimatization process and most people stay in teahouses and take their meals there. However some considered it slightly easier than the north due to the absence of the ladders and rock climbing on the steep steps of the North Ridge route. Since 1950 (when Tibet was closed), most Everest expeditions have left from Nepal and gone via the southeast ridge and the South Col (instead of via the North Col). Also see the South Col route map. Narrative The audio at 56 seconds in the video is my dispatch from the summit to this website dedicating the summit to all mom's with Alzheimer's. Mt. Information on each route is shown below the map. Climbers are told to always attach themselves to the rope and be extra careful in this area. As we got ready to leave for the summit, they checked our crampons for tightness, that our harnesses were doubled-backed and that our oxygen was set properly with the regulators. While not all of it is visible, climbers can see Nuptse on their right, Lhotse ahead and Everest on their left. However, three years skewed the deaths rates with 17 in 2014, 14 in 2015 and 11 in 2019. The summit bid starts before midnight with a steep climb up the South side of Everest. Climbers can only see a small portion of the Khumbu Ice Fall from this angle. • Everest 2005 • Everest 2004 Route Maps • South Col • North Ridge Popular Everest Posts • The cost to Climb Everest • Everest by the Numbers • Comparing the Routes • Bodies on Everest • What is Wrong with Everest? On good snow years, there is usually a well-worn path developed on the route. South Summit on the right. I had expected a long snow slope with the summit visible from just above the Hillary Step but there were more small hills, really bumps that blocked the view and continued to demand a physical effort on top of the altitude requirements. See more ideas about Everest, Route map, Mount everest. The South Col is the sharp-edged notch or pass between Mount Everest and Lhotse, the highest and fourth highest mountains in the world, respectively. The lite cloud (plume) is normal and shows some winds but still marginally climbable. I attempted Lhotse twice - 2015 and 2016. Incredible journey to a unique place. Most climbers will begin using supplemental oxygen here and have a maximum of only two or three days for making summit bids. First it is hot. The face is a steep wall of hard packed ice and snow that holds Camp 3. The climbing and Yellow Band is not technically hard but climbers are approaching 8000m. Topping the ridge, climbers follow a rocky "path" worn by other climbers and soon step on the South Col proper - an area the size of two football fields with ten or twenty or thirty tents huddled together on the west end. More people have died in the Icefall than anywhere else on Everest's south side in recent years. This is where almost every climber swaps oxygen bottles for a fresh one and also time for a food and water break. Everest’s position in Tibet and Nepal Map The north EBC situates at an altitude of 5200m (17,056ft) in Tibet while the south EBC at 5364m(17,597ft) in Nepal. I did not find it difficult or frightening since I crossed it in the dark and didn't remember it on the descent. The final section was another surprise for me. The first time climbers are probably already awake with anticipation or just because they are still not used to sleeping at 17.500'. 8,041 out of the total 8,306 summits followed the same basic route that was pioneered in 1953 by John Hunt’s British expedition to the summit using the Southeast Ridge-South Col and Shi Zhang 1960’s summit via the Northeast Ridge-North Col. Lhotse's summit is peeking out on the top right above the icefall. Camp 1 is still another half to full hour from here. This video was taken by Panaru Sherpa who climbed with Karim Mella, the first Dominican to summit Everest. Everest is the highest peak in back, the one in front is Everest's West Shoulder. . Most climbers are on supplemental oxygen and leave their tents after sunrise. Next is the climb to C2 in the Western Cwm. Everest Base Camp is on the lower left with the initial route up the ice fall as seen from Kala Patar. The Swiss returned in 1956 to make the second summit of Everest. It is common to hear a loud crash, an avalanche in the Icefall or maybe one of those towering seracs falling. Alan Arnette is a climber coach, mountaineer, professional speaker, and Alzheimer's advocate. Everest is our tallest mountain. Climbing the Lhotse Face is a big challenge after the Khumbu Ice Fall on the way to the summit. This website has reports on his summits of K2, Everest, the 7 Summits plus over 35 major expediitons plus all the Colorado 14ers all with essays, pictures, videos. But as soon as the sun hits, and there are no clouds, then it can become horribly hot. On one side it is 8,000 ft down the southwest face and on the other, the Kangshung face, a 11,000 ft drop. Mount Everest: The Routes. It is critical to have goggles and mittens in these conditions. It became extremely cold and stayed that way until I returned to the South Summit on the descent. The summit is the highest point in this picture. After descending from the South Summit, climbers encounter a small rock climb, maybe 10 feet that I mistook for the Hillary Step for a moment. Summit route as seen from Camp 4, the South Col. In 2011, there were three "Camp 3's" ranging from 23,500 to 24,000'. Let's take a look at the climb above C3 and onto the South Col. Maps of Everest Routes and Deaths. The South Col was first reached on May 12, 1952 by Aubert, Lambert, and Flory of Edouard Wyss-Dunant's Swiss Mount Everest Expedition that failed to reach the summit. Once on top of the South Summit, climbers must down climb about 50'. Depending on the weather, the Face is usually rock hard blue ice. On the right were large snow cornices with interesting shapes created by the prevailing winds. Everest. The Nepal side has 194 deaths or 2.9%, a rate of 1.23. At 6:30 a.m. on May 28, 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay set out from a camp high above the South Col on the Southwest Face of Mount Everest and began the ascent for which both would become famous. The fixed line becomes a bit cumbersome and requires careful manipulation of their carabineer and jumar in heavy gloves at each anchor. By now you know two routes dominate Everest. They dress in layers but not too many because it can be warm: long underwear, shell pants and light top, a shell jacket and a warm jacket in the pack for breaks. It is very normal for a long line of climbers to be going up and another long line coming down - usually Sherpas returning from carrying loads to the higher camps. Sitting between Everest and Lhotse at 26,300 feet, it serves as the base for the summit attempt.  The weather stations are about 7 feet (2.1 m) tall and weigh 110 pounds (50 kg). , Looking at Everest upper portions from the South Col, "French Everest Mystery Chopper's Utopia summit", "Inside the Everest expedition that built the world's highest weather station", 1950–1952 British–Swiss–US reconnaissance, List of people who died climbing Mount Everest, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=South_Col&oldid=979832922, Pages with non-numeric formatnum arguments, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 23 September 2020, at 01:49. ... of the usual South East Ridge route from the South Col. They eat as much as they can at the early breakfast, top off water bottles (not hydration packs since they freeze) and put harness on then start heading towards the icefall. ... 1988 - An international team climbs the Neverest Buttress to the South Col. Brit Stephen Venables follows the SE Ridge route to the summit without using oxygen. When not climbing, I cover the Everest season from my home in Colorado as I did for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 , 2017, 2018 and now the 2019 season. From 1923 to 1999: 170 people died on Everest with 1,169 summits or 14.5%. Camp 1 is not visible from the top of the Icefall. Clear weather and low winds are critical factors in deciding whether to make a summit attempt. 122 died not using Os. Himalaya - Nepal It usually takes four to six hours to cover the 1.62 miles and climbers get faster as their acclimatization increases. You can see it in the picture above the top climber with the rope ascending above it. Some are crossed on ladders but others remain hidden by thin snow bridges. Standard Routes. There were 11 deaths. Climbers start before sunrise to minimize the movement of the glacier heating up with sunrise and mid-day heat. The picture below was taken by Brad Jackson in 2009. All content is protected by copyright laws. Headlamps lighting up the way. It is also difficult to sleep, and most climbers' digestive systems have significantly slowed or completely stopped. By steep, I mean 40 to 50 degrees. Climbers leave the Balcony on a somewhat gentle grade but it quickly increases to 30 degrees but still on a snow packed boot path in high traffic years. There are normally five to 8 ladders in this area along with a fixed rope. Images … This means a 3:00AM wake-up call and a quick breakfast. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of This is about halfway up and it has taken at least two hours, probably three the first time up. In low snow years, smooth rock slabs just below the South Summit can be challenging with crampons and in high snow years, deep snow drifts create issues. The climb from the Balcony to the South Summit was longer than I anticipated and significantly more difficult than I had envisioned. The North Ridge Route is the second-most popular route. This is the first time most climbers start to use bottled oxygen. Once there, they eat and rest and then go to the summit. Mt. Approach The South Col route starts at Everest Base Camp (EBC) which is a 30 mile trek from Lukla (9,317’), the nearest airstrip. Deserving of every harsh word ever written or said. The route seems to go up forever and climbers think climbers are never going to get to the Balcony. I have now been through the Icefall about 40 times. Respect for these special people grow not because of their strength but because of their completeness. Above the slabs, it gets even steeper, maybe 60 degrees; hard to believe when climbers are there. It takes about 2-3 hours to walk from C1 to C2 and it can be extremely hot. Some climbers report various degrees of vertigo and being uneasy with soft edges on the boot tracks. In 2011 we arrived in C4 after a 3 hour climb from C3 at 8:00 AM and rested, drank and ate until 7:00 PM. Once climbers top the Icefall there is a large flat expanse of snow on the western end of the Western Cwm. The Khumbu Icefall is located at the head of the Khumbu Glacier and the foot of the Western Cwm, which lies at an altitude of 5,486 metres (17,999 ft) on the Nepali slopes of Mount Everest, not far above Base Camp and southwest of the summit. So most leave Camp 1 at 6:00 AM or earlier. 29,035 feet 8,850 m. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed it three other times (all from Nepal) - 2002, 2003 and 2008 each time reaching just below the Balcony at about 27,500' (8400 meters) before health, weather or my own judgment caused me to turn back. Their presence there was symbolic of our success in overcoming the most crucial problem of the whole climb; they had reached an objective which we had been striving to attain for twelve anxious days.. Mt. In the photo above, there are TWO "level spots" visible: One lower on the SE ridge, also wider and rounder, further to the right. The route changes each day since the glacier is constantly moving. Map, Facts And Information. Cho Oyu is the safest with 3,845 summits and 52 deaths or a death rate of 0.55. If your the camp is at the top of the gully, it can be a very long final half hour. There are over 18 named routes on Everest and a couple that are still unclimbed. Route from Camp 3 to the South Col. Across the Yellow Band and to the left up the Geneva Spur. The icefall is considered one of the most dangerous stages of the South Col route to Everest's summit. Most bodies are still on the mountain but China has removed many bodies from sight on their side. At the top of the Hillary Step a large boulder aka chockstone sitting on a ledge, blocked the route. All the pictures are from my Everest climbs. Layers are important for this section. 2-3 hours, 1.74 miles one way, Summit Ridge. The angle can be very steep especially just above the base or the bergschrund and again near the top most camps. This is because it is more efficient at this altitude for the body to use stored energy sources than to digest new food. After a few weeks, the path is fairly well set due to the thousands of kicks into the ice but one storm can have climbers starting all over again. It takes about 2-3 hours to walk from C1 to C2 and it can be extremely hot. The South Col Route starts from the base camp located on the south side of Mt. Everest from the South Col Save The route follows the shallow gully up and then right to the level spot on the Ridge (The Balcony). It is about 1.07 miles from the South Col to the summit and usually takes from 6 to 9 hours or more. Everest is the highest peak in back, the one in front is Everest's West Shoulder. The summit is not big, maybe 30 square feet. The Nepal side is more popular with 6,554 summits compared to 3,632 summits from the Tibet side. The route goes up in angle and once in Camp 2 proper, it can be the steepest walk because the tents are set up along a rising rock gully. Everest at 5:00AM on May 21, 2011 with Kami Sherpa of International Mountain Guides (IMG). However once in their tent, the views are amazing on a clear day! It is a bit of a shock in that it is relatively high, about 50' of jutting rock. In low snow years, this area may be snow free and most Sherpas and some climbers remove their crampons to make it easier. The Himalayan Database reports that through August 2020 there have been 10,271 summits (5,164 members and 5,107 hired) on Everest by all routes by 5,790 different people. I have marked the camps and routes we used in all my climbs. The South Col Route was taken by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay and is still the route used most frequently. If you dream of climbing mountains but are not sure how to start or reach your next level from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest or even K2, I can help. There are usually two or three levels of camps because flat areas are at a premium and Sherpas need a somewhat flat area to carve out tent platforms. This is where they take a break, drink some water, slow their breathing and eat something. The sun is reflected by the snow and ice covered walls of the valley and lightly filtered at this 22,000 foot altitude. 13 women have died. Of the 8000 meter peaks, Everest has the highest absolute number of deaths at 304 but ranks near the bottom with a death rate of 1.17. Each climber was with their Personal Sherpa. People stopping to adjust oxygen or gear. This is only for about 100 - 300 feet depending on the route that year but it takes concentration. Narrative Then there are the crevasses. The expansive western flank of Lhotse is called the Lhotse Face and is an unavoidable part of the traditional southeast route up Everest. The reduction in deaths is primarily due to better gear, weather forecasting and more people climbing with commercial operations. It had a small bench carved out of the snow for clibmers to pose onfor pictures. The South Col route is one to be taken very seriously as unlike most of the routes its fatality rate is far greater with a current total sitting at 17. See more pictures of the South Col and above. Climbers struggle with their 20lb load and Sherpas scoot by them with their 60 to 100 pound loads. A large area of flat hard packed snow. Jan 13, 2018 - Explore Annie Johnston's board "Everest Route Map" on Pinterest. Everest South vs North If you are looking to climb Everest there are a whole raft of factors to take in to account – the cost, the style of trip, the company (and their track record), the client / Sherpa ratio for summit day, availability of oxygen high on the hill, availability of spare oxygen and masks . Atop the Ice Fall is Camp 1 serving as a weigh station to the Western Cwm and Camp 2. Then it can be brutally cold if the cloud moves in, the wind picks up and it starts snowing. www.alanarnette.com is provided for informational purposes only and not to be used for advice except through Summit Coach services. It was obviously dark at 9:20 PM when we set out. The vast majority of climbers use two routes: South Col or the Northeast Ridge Standard aka North Col route. More on my summit based on my May 21 2011 summit.
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